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Article
Beach Profile Evolution Under Plunging and Spilling Breakers
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
  • Ping Wang, University of South Florida
  • Bruce A. Ebersole, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center
  • Ernest R. Smith, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center
Document Type
Article
Publication Date
1-1-2003
Keywords
  • water,
  • water waves,
  • sediments,
  • modelling,
  • civil engineering,
  • ASCE Subject Headings: profiles,
  • sediment transport,
  • coastal morphology,
  • breaking waves
Digital Object Identifier (DOI)
https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2003)129:1(41)
Abstract

Beach-profile evolution, along with measurements of waves, currents, and sediment concentration, under spilling and plunging breakers of similar height were studied in the three-dimensional Large-Scale Sediment Transport Facility at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Unidirectional irregular waves were generated over a fine-sand beach. Beach-profile shape reached equilibrium after 1,330 and 280 min of spilling and plunging wave actions, respectively. Near the main breaker line, the profile evolved differently under plunging and spilling breakers. Across most of the midsurf zone dominated by surf bores, the equilibrium profile shapes were similar. Uniform energy dissipation per unit volume at equilibrium, as assumed in the Dean 1977 model and often used in cross-shore sediment-transport modeling, was measured for both cases across most of the surf zone except at the main breaker line, where a much greater rate of dissipation occurred. The bar/trough formation and maintenance were closely related to the local patterns of sediment suspension and bed scour at the plunging point.

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Citation / Publisher Attribution

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, v. 129, issue 1, p. 41-46

Link to the publisher: https://apps.dtic.mil/docs/citations/ADA423537

Citation Information
Ping Wang, Bruce A. Ebersole and Ernest R. Smith. "Beach Profile Evolution Under Plunging and Spilling Breakers" Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering Vol. 129 Iss. 1 (2003) p. 41 - 46
Available at: http://works.bepress.com/pingwang/49/